Mo-stanbul...

Now if ever you want to typecast or stereotype, there is no better city that I have travelled to that strikes a chord like Istanbul. A city divided between 2 continents, but 1 flamboyant character throughout. 

The Capital of Turkey, Istanbul, served as a welcome host for a 12 hour layover on the way to visit my sister in Uganda, and a welcome host it was indeed.

Spurred by the fact that one doesn’t need a visa, and rumours of cheap means of entertainment, little stood in the way of making the most of the 12 hours at the destination. If you want a wise way to spend €50, Istanbul perhaps leads the bidding towards €50 well-invested-in-a-day reward.

Even though the day started early at 5 AM, little can match a Turkish coffee; Starbucks style, to get one revving for the day ahead. 

The Metro rail and train system, once you get your head around it, works like a charm; and old world chivalry lives on strong, with youngsters standing up to hand over seats on the crowded coaches to elderly or pregnant.

The city panorama from a distance just doesn’t justify the detail once up close. Colours, Marble, Architecture…it’s a indiscernible collection of ancient mixed with derelict, all sprayed and washed down daily to create a particular early morning glide that forces you to pay even closer detail to where and how you walk.

The city scape is a positive assault of the senses. Your eyes are constantly absorbing a kaleidoscope of colours and textures, from markets to stalls. Your sense of smell abused by a population that over 80% smokes, mixed with the smell of meat grilling and spice markets. Your skin is warmed by a humid sunshine and brushed by people constantly. The city never sleeps and engines, hooters, music and languages are assaulting your ears…and your taste…your taste is the sense that can laud over the others. Spices, fruits, turkish coffee, tea’s and sweet treats are all on offer to exceed all taste expectations that may precede the reality. 

Back to spending €50 for a day, I do recommend spending a large proportion of it at a Haman, a Turkish Bath. Going to one that is claimed to the in the 1001 things to see before you die, I would agree. Chose your treatment at the bath, and head into a room where you are told to strip completely and wear just a cotton towel. Wearing wooden shoes that create an echoing racket in the marble halls and clacking into the steam room, you sit on a hot marble centre piece to wait your turn. After relaxing for 5 minutes, I had Osman, a short, moustached, hairy and big bellied gentleman say: “welcome, is your turn”. Osman was there to sandpaper, washed down, soaped up and twisted, bent, bones clicked and generally be treated like a rubber band. Overall, well worth the money spent as you do literally feel like rubber afterwards.

A walk through the spice market, gold market, fish market, leather jacket market (brush up on your Russian for some reason) and sweet market are all well worth the mosey about.

The best food is one that is about 4 bucks cheaper than anywhere else, has no clean tables and are full of the locals smoking, drinking tea and stuffing meaty treats into their mouth. Where they eat, you should eat also. 

Furthermore, how tough can it be to beat a city, whose image of people is the moustache? From the first boarding, I had a boy in the que before me, no older than 12 with a moustache. The kicker is that, no matter how impressive the 12 year old was with his “mo”, it just couldn’t match his mothers…

This must be Moustache City. “Mo-vember” has nothing on Mo-stanbul.

12 hours in Istanbul…do it.

1 year, and counting

13 August, 2011. One calendar year,  365 days. A seemingly insignificant quote, but ask each individual what their perceptions are of a year, and you will get a multitude of answers. To me, well, in this instance, is merely a celebration.
This date signifies one year since landing in Sweden to start a new adventure. One year can hold a vast array of experiences, just some highlights that have been are as follows:

• I have changed citizenship, registered as a Swede, yet remaining a South African as far as possible
• I have changed occupation, reverting from working class to student.
• Experienced the coldest weather in my life, a bone chilling -32 degree's Celsius.
• Met more people from foreign cultures in a short space of time, something comparable to United Nations. 
• Been confused with Australians, English, Yanks and denied being South African because I am white.
• Wondered if IKEA can become a religion
• Experienced daylight hours no longer than 4 hours and experienced the midnight sun.
• Failed an exam, spun a car off the road, been fined for being corrupt, and paid way to much for a beer.
• Caught 4 new species of fish on fly rod and fished through a hole in ice.
• Celebrated major events Swedish style, usually involving a fire, a dance and some odd tasting alcohol. Events being Autumn, Pre-Christmas, Christmas, New Years, Easter, Spring, Mid summer...and so on
• Been to SA, had South Africans visiting and something in between.
• Learned to swallow and eat pickled fish.
• Crossed the polar circle
• Have replaced my blood levels with sugarless coffee thats as strong as a brick outhouse during fika's that occur anything between 3-17 times a day.
• Hiked up many mountains, spent time in many forests, fished many rivers and had a cracking good time all the way.
• Most importantly, learned and still learning, to trust God wholeheartedly for His divine plan that continues to unveil His mercy, grace and provision in every instance. 

And so, to another year to come and yet more experiences to attain. Challenges ahead include: continuing mastering this language, making it through another dark winter, fishing a little more than previously and what ever other amazing experience that I am sure is in store.

So to God be glory, and going on with hope, here's to another year, WOOHOO!

What are you vandring about?

Vandring; to hike, take a walk on the wildside, spend time in the wilderness, far from any people; to walk, self sufficient for a period of time: a Swedish pastime that is as closely linked to their passion for nature. Which, besides from telling the world that Sweden is the centre of Europe, is a Swedes second biggest passion, to protect “their” nature from man (read: themselves).

Three men start

Recently I found myself following in the footsteps of such a Swedes (literally), as we trudged (definition: the dejected walk of a man who has nothing left to lose) mellan 5 mil (definition: 2 million kilometres) across what seemed to be the unending Himalayan panorama (definition: Swedens “alps” in Jämtland) for about three months (definition, 4 days) No paths, no tracks, no people, no cabin, no clue….nothing. Just 5 people alone in the middle of the wilderness, surviving on whatever we could lug around on our backs, like domesticated yaks carrying supplies for a pilgrimage.*

Now don’t get me wrong, I absolutely love a good hike, as was the case in this experience, to be struck with a realisation that you are the only soul in a 50 km radius, no cell phone signal, no electricity, just you and whatever you are carrying; absolute self sufficiency. Standing atop a peak and reflecting on where you are and what you are doing does something to ones mind and soul. It certainly is a place to shake you to the core and make you connect with God in way you cannot imagine, not just muttering at some point “God I am so close to You in height now, please just scoop down and pluck me off this earth right here”. (To be honest, there were not many of those moments at all)

Kai in one of those "Close to God" moments

The expedition party consisted of 5 members, and as the marching song went:

“On and on and on again;

Who the hell are we?

A Dane, a Swede, a Germ, a Saffa and a Bl**dy Kiwi”

The end of the hike had this in 5 different languages.

And the group is...

Relying on ourselves for provisions, sleeping arrangements consisted of a mattress, tent and sleeping bags, cooking was done on a “triangia” portable kitchen and whatever food we could carry. Turns out dehydrated chicken curry and chilli con carne can be really delicious after hours outside. Hunger really is the best spice.

A Dane and a Germ cooking up  a dehydrated storm

With the Swede being the guide, we soon realised that even Swedes can be unprepared. Items forgotten among others being; waterproof clothing, warm clothing, lunches…turns out resourcefulness leads to a sweater becoming long johns and such other improvised inventions at a pinch.

Improv swedes

The act of hiking is known as vandring in Swedish, and the never-ending joke that kept me amused was; “vell vat are you vandring about?”.  Funny how after three days, unknown distances covered and a bruised toe can lead to some members not thinking that its that funny any more*.

*This explains the reason the marching song contains the phrase: bl**dy Kiwi. (Please note, this also has nothing to do with a Saffa’s inbred disdain at anything linked to New Zealand’s rugby rivalry, or recent scarring of the cricket world cup knock out stages)

Our accommodation was provided by most hiking members carrying the tents. Each day ended with selecting a fantastic campsite, one person making the dinner while the others set the tents up and fetching water. The views and times at the camp sites were simply astounding. Its tough to describe the feeling, that after a hard days slog, to have a dip in an ice cold lake (literally snow-still-melting cold), and sit back after a good meal, looking out over the vast panorama, mug of wine in hand and appreciate where you are. Truly magnificent.

Did I mention that the greatest part of each camp was the ablution facilities? Choose a spot with the best view, toilet paper and matches in hand and all off a sudden epiphany’s can spring to ones mind when you least expect it. Case in point, invention of the Marching Song. Memorable indeed!

The weather was flamboyant at best. It was only after we had experienced some of the hottest weather in Sweden (about 25 degrees), seen pale skins turn pink and sweated the equivalent of our body weights that the Swede amongst us stated: “you should never be out in nature when the weather is perfect”. He was right, as three days of near perfect weather turned into a massive rainstorm on the second last day, which then turned into constant rain for the remainder of the hike. This is where the walk turned into a trudge, albeit a breathtakingly beautiful trudge through some of the most amazing scenery I have ever witnessed.

Wet weather pose

Its through the hardest parts of a hike where the best memories are made. Its also funny at how these times you keep getting reminded of the fact that there is always some member of the party that has the lighter bag, doesn’t offer group effort of sharing tent loads, cooking utensils, offers no food, eats everyone else’s snacks, constantly complains, has a terrible accent and is generally a like walking with the equivalent of a water buffalo for company. Please once again refer to the Marching Song for an innuendo on that member.

With friendships being formed, memories created, experiences gained, respect earned and suntan’s caught, this hike will certainly remain as one of my fondest memory’s for a very long time. Next time you see me with a distant look in my eyes, you could probably guess vat I am vandring about….

For those who grapple with the concept of ironic humour, or would like the plain facts, the hike was around a lake called Mjölkvatnet, was 48 kms long, took 4 days and was really amazing. See this link for details:

Map of Mjölkvatnet

Thankfully the ice has melted

Which means...dum dum dum, its outdoors, sunshine and fishing time!

The last two weeks have been filled with days consisting of a few minutes of sunshine, warmer temperatures, a bit of rain, 20 hours of sunshine, braai's, runs and of course a few days fishing. Still, its a bit early in the season, admittedly, but its no complaining getting out and having a few casts here and there to see whats, if anything is biting.

I have met up with a few friends who are crazy about outdoors and one or two who are nuts about fishing too and have explored a few regions. There are few fish to show for the effort, the memories of making a fire anywhere, viewing the awesome scenery that is to offer, and the return of smelling like a forest fire are all fondly remembered and eagerly looked forward to for the next times.

I have also spent a few days camping and doing a cycle tour. My good friend Kai and I packed out bikes recently, as lightly as we could, ie, no changes of clothes or unnecessary items (its good to be a man). Together we set off to a nearby nature reserve to enjoy some of Swedens best scenery. The great thing about swedes is their rule of the right of public access, meaning that you can camp anywhere and make a fire, as long as you are not invading someones privacy.

So, right next to a lake, we set up camp, made a HUGE fire and enjoyed a night outdoors, rain, wind and all. Despite the rain at 5 AM and gusting wind, we returned happy, smelly and filled with good memories of nature.

"What have we done moment?" with a good fire

The next night I followed more friends to yet another camping trip, to a different area and river for more camp memories. The sun tried to set at around 11 PM, we sat talking some more, set up a tent at 2 AM sans the aid of a torch it was that light, and attempted to sleep in the ever present glow of no evening. Great memories to behold.

Cycle tour bikes

River view

So, you see folks, 20 hours of sunshine, greenery, lack of snow and a fabulous arena for adventure, Sweden yet again delivers on entertainment.

Cool foxes skull for biology, mum.

And they call it a fishing boat

God smiles when you least expect it.

Birthday Post

I suppose as I age on yet another year and life continues on, that its time for another post. But this on serves as a celebratory post; and a little insight of what else has been happening for the past few weeks.

On the back of a rather stressful few months with internship and university work, its nice to take a breather and have some time to relax. Its been good to unwind over the last two weeks.

Morning of arrival

And one who loves Östersund

On April 22nd I am pleased to announce that I received my first visitor from South Africa. None other than one: Danelle Bosman, after travelling for a fair amount of time arrived in a very sunny Östersund to kick off a 10 day holiday for her. The days leading up to her arriving were bustling with excitement, as we planned what she will be doing etc etc. Needless to say I was excited as she was and looked foreword to her trip. (Did I mention that her trip coincided with yours-truly's birthday, so the prospect of home treats were also something to look forward too)

In a space of 10 action packed days, we did: Easter in Sweden (great concert in an old church btw), skiing in Åre (In short sleeve shirts as the picture demonstrates), Swam in indoor pools, had an outdoor picnic, experienced the towns nightlife, visited museum and historic sites, socialised, enjoyed the outdoors and celebrated a birthday with a mix of cultures.

Skiing in short sleves

Great sunny picnic

Easter concert 

Seeing as it happens just once a year, I feel that a birthday must be described. Bear in mind that the king of Sweden shares his birthday on the same day as I do, which is a big affair. Its also a day of celebration, public holiday on May1 and a huge fire that gets lit all over as Swedes chase away the nasties of winter.

Birthday dinner

The day started with Danelle singing and the standard pictures and coffee when you wake up. Yes, the tradition lives on. After a skype session with folks and present unwrapping, we surged around town and did last minute gift shopping and preperations for the evening began. We made a proper affair of Vetkoek, Mince, Biltong, Apricot jam et al! It went down a treat. (On that note, many thanks goes to Danelle for lugging along Vetkoek mix and grandma's apricot jam). Following the dinner, the group of friends all went to the harbour where a choir proceeded to sing Valborg songs and a HUGE fire was lit up, followed by fireworks. Now this is a way I must recommend to anyone to share a birthday.

What a way to make a fire, size does matter

So, concluding a great few weeks, I must thank Danelle for coming to Sweden and spending valuable time here, she made this break one to remember, and I look foreword to what the future holds for both of us.

And as for the onset of summer; well, if this is how you finish the winter then all I say is: Bring it ON!

Hehe, the wines name is Andrew

Spring is here

How do you tell?
Well, take a look at the following weather report:

'

Its no longer -28, the suns setting at 20h38 and there are the following popping up all over:

Also, snow is melting, the sun is actually warm, there are some great views if you know where to look;

 and while looking, if you know you have too squint for the sun, then you know spring is finally here. 

Thanks God