“All I wanted to do now was get back to Africa. We had not left it, yet, but when I would wake in the night I would lie, listening, homesick for it already.”
– Ernest Hemingway, Green Hills of Africa
Where can I start describing, an experience that transcends many day to day experiences. A country of reality, history, language, sights, sounds, sensations and much more that exceeds expectations. Winston Churchill termed Uganda as the Pearl of Africa and he’s apt description still stands 100 years on.
The decision to travel to Uganda stemmed from my sisters invitation. She and her husband had moved to Uganda for new adventures, work opportunities and way of life. Her offer was too good to be ignored, and seeing as I was np longer going to Cyprus, the need for something completely different, AND a good break with great sunshine was needed after a real busy summer.
The trip was booked a month before I left and truth be told, was booked without knowing what to do, or, honestly, where Uganda actually was. All I knew was that I was going to spend time with my sister, and hopefully do a little white water rafting, that was all. Little did I know what a jam packed full week it would be.
I arrived at 2 AM in Entebbe, Uganda’s international airport with Karen waiting to greet. The short drive to the inn was brief but surreal as the realisation of Africa still hadn’t hit me. After booking into the room and seeing the rough furniture and mosquito nets, I realised, EISH, its real. Waking up the next morning, in T-shirt and shorts to a rooster calling, it finally sunk in that Africa is happening.
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| Welcome to Africa |
The capital of Uganda is Kampala, or should be called Crazytown. Its bedlam in that city. The sights, sounds, noise and chaos all comes together in a manic disorganisation that is Kampala. Its Africa at its reality and cannot be described unless visited. Imagine 10 million people in a barely tarred, built up area, people driving Hi Ace vans, 4wd’s and motorbikes all over as fast as they can with no rules. Nuts…yet, with a glamerous side of a golf course, 5 star hotels and the best cappuccinos money can buy.
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| 4wd Special Custom Hi Ace...only in Africa |
From Kampala, Karen and myself split up from Deon to travel to a reserve about 380 kms away. This journey took 4 hours, luckily, its predicted to take 6, depending on the traffic of Kampala. Its amazing to see the countryside, such a lush, green country with masses of water and fertile land.
The next few days were a blur of African wilderness and adventures in Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda’s oldest park protected since 1926. Karen surprised with a chimpanzee trekking trip. What an amazing experience, as you trek through lush tropical jungles, tree’s 50-60 metres tall and so wide you cannot even put your arms around them. Birds calling constantly, cicada beetles clicking and just being immersed in the jungle. Yes we got to see Chimps in their natural habitat but the overall experience was indescribable.
On the banks of the Nile at the waterfalls, we planked, took pictures, went on sunset boat cruises, waterfall cruises, drank beer, had a laugh, made great friends, met interested people and just relished all that Africa had to offer. Pictures speak 1000 words…
Karen and Deon stay in a town called Mbale, on the eastern side of Uganda. Nestled the foothills of Wanele Ridge, part of a volcanic ridge stemming from Mount Elgon, a volcanic landmass. Its one of the larger towns of Uganda but still has a very rural and undeveloped appeal. Littered with busy markets, NGO’s, volunteer organisations and numerous stunning hotels, Mbale is known for its rain and bad potholed roads…
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| Heading into Mbale |
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| Matooke |
Karen and Deons house is reminiscent of Shongwe…for those who remember what it looked like. It’s a large, high roofed, green house whereby function presides over form. Cool in the warm days and dry when it rains, it serves them well, with a large grassy garden and ever larger, muddy, fertile area at the back that serves as ariable land which grows the tastiest avocado’s, matooke, guava’s, sakuma weki and much much more, compliments to Karen and Pastor Mikes efforts.
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| Missionary Pose Karen in the garden |
The week is also divided by leisurely mornings of breakfast of the stoep, furious work until lunch time, which is either cooked by Sara the house lady (often using home grown produce), or lunch at one of the nearby hotels, with a swim and tasty food under the shady tree’s on the hotels lawns. Served by waiters in crisp white shirts, bow ties and food covered by stainless steel covers…one has to admit to a certain charm about olde world colonialism.
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| Matooke, Sakuma Weki, Goat and Fillet stew and good old Stoney |
3-4 kilometres from the house is this stunning waterfall, on the ridge that has 4-5 waterfalls. This particular day was spent scrambling up to Nondongoro?? 
Waterfall with Moses. The paths were littered with coffee bean plantations, beans, banana’s, goats, vanilla, potatoes, tomatoes, yams etc etc and a million children all cheering an Mzungu on with the same saying “Mzungu, how are you…fine, how are you” Got to love Africa.
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| Coffee Beans on Wanele Ridge |
A highlight of Uganda was spending a night on the Nile at a luxury lodge which is a “smultronställen” of Karen and Deon; The Haven. The views are unmatched from this place. The purpose of the lodge was to give Karen and Deon a respite from a stressful week and also to allow for white water rafting for myself…lets just say that I have realised I lack the fear of danger when it comes to water and have found a calling. Rafting on the Nile.
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| Happiness is Karen and Deon in Nature |
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| View from The Haven on the Nile |
Uganda surprised me with its heart warming people, skin warming sunshine, soul burning adventure. A culturally diverse place, filled with opportunities and laughs, always surprising with something that doesn’t make sense, a place worth taking thousands of pictures…a place called home for Karen and Deon…a place called Africa
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